Backstage at Bridal Fashion Week

Like Fashion Week, Manhattan is abuzz with designers and shows and parties during Bridal Fashion Week. This year I worked behind the scenes at the Wedding Trendspot Spring 2010 runway show as part of the MG Hair and Makeup (my agency!) beauty team. The look for the models was bronze-y with coppery eyes and a "bitten" mouth. Stainiac's hint of tint lip and cheek gel stain was applied to models' lips in the universally flattering color beauty queen (sheer berry pink) and topped with a dab of sheer melon gloss. Hair was casually smoothed half back with subtle twists on the side and loose cascading curls down the back. We were each assigned a model to help dress during the show. Never a dull moment behind the stage as models sprinted back from the runway over and over, unzipping their dresses and diving into the next one, all while wearing 5-inch heels! At times it seemed surreal with all of the taffeta, chiffon, and silk layers flying around with headpieces and bustles, tulle and jewelry. Fifteen designers' collections were showcased and the pace was fast. These girls rocked it! A very big thank you to Paul Newland at Solvara.com for sharing some of his great show photos with me.

Just One of the Guys? Not Tonight!

I love receiving messages like the one I got from Robyn recently. "I need to book you! I got this invitation and it says 'dress to impress!'". Special events are fun because it's a great excuse to do makeup and hair that's way more glamorous than you would normally wear. Robyn is not a big makeup wearer and dresses pretty casually. She hangs out with a lot of guys doing things like watching football. She decided this was the perfect event to remind them that she is, in fact, a woman. Channeling her inner Jessica Rabbit, she chose a slinky little black dress and super smoothed hair perfectly rounded in front and back. I told her I was feeling bold and that I really wanted to put a ton of black eyeliner and shadow on her. She had never worn black makeup in her life. "But it's a nighttime event and this will be makeup that looks good at night. Circle of trust! Circle of trust!" I said, making my case. She decided to go for it and couldn't believe it when I showed her the mirror. Even her trademark freckles were completely gone. "Woa!" she said. And apparently that's what the guys said too when they saw her. I got a two-word email the next day with these pics attached: MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!

A Perfect Mess

Erin is one of the biggest characters I've ever met! Larger than life would be a total understatement. Her Motown-themed wedding in the Harlem church where she is a gospel singer was as unique as she is. And just like how she knew her man was the one for her (he agreed to dress as a can of Raid to complement her sparkly cockroach costume for Halloween), she knew exactly how she wanted her makeup. "Not too matte!" she warned me. A nice glow with long lashes and a little melon colored shimmer on the eyes to match her delicious wedding colors of creamsickle and tangerine. "Satin finish on the lips please - I'm not really a gloss girl." No problem. Love a girl who knows what she wants. When it came to the hair, she knew she wanted some texture added and finger-raked back with a few pieces falling out. We played around with the back but it just seemed too curly and "done" for her taste. On the day of the wedding she watched in the mirror as I, under her orders, roughed up the waves in the back. She kept saying "Messier!" so I went for it until I heard the word "Perfect!". Yay! Many thanks to Convey Photography for the photos. Good luck Erin! I had so much fun getting to know you!

Showing Off Some Gorgeous Hair

Tristanne has some of the most beautiful hair I've ever played with: long, thick, lush, and a gorgeous deep brown color. I was excited that she decided to show it off and wear her hair down for the wedding. We went for a combination of waves, curls, and her hair's natural texture so it didn't look too "done" and had nice movement. We ended up having a fun little beauty party that morning with her sister (a complete beauty junkie like myself) doing the bride's makeup and then I did her sister's makeup. The groom's mother also joined our little beauty party. There was something very special about the way they interacted with each other. They all had so much respect and love for one another. It was such a pleasure to spend time with them. Lina Jang photographed this wedding like the rock star that she is. Good luck, Tristanne! Come back to New York soon! We miss you!

My Allure Magazine "Debut"

On my very first blog post I talked about how exciting it was to have my ideas for an Allure magazine article make it all the way to their editor. She even said the ideas were great! The story was to be a re-cap of "The Year in Beauty" so I submitted ideas for makeup, hair, and fashion. I was absolutely thrilled to receive the October 2009 issue and find three of my ideas there in print! Of course I'm sure I wasn't the only one with those ideas, but still....! The three ideas that made the cut were 1) the uproar over Michelle Obama's bare arms - especially in her official First Lady portrait, 2) the media backlash over Jessica Simpson's "mom jeans", and 3) the "ugly duckling" story of the year: Susan Boyle. So I have to recommend this issue to everyone, not just so you can see my "debut", but because it's the Allure Best of Beauty 2009 issue. People like me wait for this issue all year to see what products win in each makeup, hair, and skin category. If you are confused about products or find the sheer amount of them overwhelming, this is the issue for you!

Lash Lengthener Last Call

The Estee Lauder Company just announced that they are closing their Prescriptives division after 30 years as of January 31st :( That means you only have a few months left to purchase one of the best mascaras ever created and their best selling product: False Lashes. It has tiny fibers mixed into it that adhere to the ends of your real lashes to make them look even longer. If you already have a mascara that you love but like the idea of trying the fibers, get their Lash Builder Mascara Base Coat. It is a clear primer full of fibers that you put on before your regular mascara is smoothed over the top. When visiting with my neice earlier this summer, we got the chance to talk about her upcoming wedding makeup and play around with some products. Penny had just bought the new Maybelline Pulse Perfection by Define-A-Lash Vibrating Mascara [many of you know I'm a fan of the Define-A-Lash mascaras -not sure I need it to vibrate though!] and tried it with the Prescriptives Base Coat, which she often uses with her mascara. Since she already has pretty long lashes, we agreed that it was kind of "overkill" for a wedding so she ended up wearing the vibrating mascara on its own that day. As you can see from the picture I snapped, the lashes were certainly out there! For those with sensitive eyes and contact wearers, mascaras and primers that contain fibers are not recommended as they can be irritating to some wearers.

To Each Her Own

Each year I wonder what the trends for bridal parties that I work with will be. This year brides seem to be very relaxed when it comes to their bridal party's hair and makeup, letting them choose a style that they like and that suits their hair length and texture. I am always careful to make sure that none of them come too close to the bride's look unless she approves of it. As an artist, it's fun to work with a "variety pack" like this wedding where I styled the bridal party's hair. They were such a fun group that I smile whenever I look at this picture. Thanks to Bill Fredericks Studio for the photos.

Mascara for Sensitive Eyes

Putting mascara on your eyes is like putting shoe polish on them. For those with sensitive skin, mascara is usually the worst offender. I was just visiting with my friend Kristina and she said "You know, I'm still using that mascara you recommended to me a couple years ago. It's the only thing I've ever found that doesn't irritate my eyes or smudge all over." That is exactly the reason I love blinc mascara. You don't even need soap to remove it! A few brush strokes form micro "tubes" around the lashes that can be removed with warm water and gentle wiping. The result is a sink full of what looks like little spider legs. Weird, yet somehow great. The "tubes" stay on your lashes all day until removed but are not harsh on your eyes or lashes like a waterproof mascara is. The mascara seems to perform better after using it for about 2 weeks so give it a chance to "air out".

Born in Japan under the name KissMe, it soon became a hard-to-find cult item in boutiques across the U.S. The packaging and name have since been updated but the formula remains the same. No trendy brushes or fibers here. Just straight up wonderful mascara!

Naturally Curly Solutions

I was very happy to receive an email from Nicole, a bride whose hair I styled for her wedding, reporting that her hair remained frizz-free the entire day. Yes!!! Nicole has super curly hair that is seriously prone to frizz, especially in the humid New York summers. Even so, I applauded her for choosing to showcase her beautiful natural hair (and for choosing a red wedding dress!). We decided to start with the BEST gel for curly hair on the planet: DevaCurl's AnGell, applied to super wet, combed hair. Nicole recognized and loved the gel since she had just gotten her hair cut at their famous salon, Devachan. When it comes to curls, the top two rival salons in the country are Devachan and Ouidad.

I first learned about Devachan working as an assistant at a wedding several years ago. A curly-haired bride had hired her own special stylist for the day (Lorraine Massey, Devachan founder). The bride's wet hair was so loaded with gel that I was alarmed. She was instructed to let it air dry. Both could see the concern on my face and told me not to worry - to wait and see what happened. As it dried, the hair strands plumped up into smooth, bouncy, frizz-free curls. It astounded me. I got to hear all about the philosophy behind her products and salon and none of my curly-haired friends who I've forced to go there have ever been disappointed.

Nicole's hair needed a finishing cream to smooth the strands a bit more and to add some shine. I worried that my favorite Fekkai Glossing Cream would be too oily on the gel (contains olive oil) but an extensive search of other products turned up only products that are applied to wet hair before styling. I decided to go with the John Freida Frizz-Ease Secret Weapon Flawless Finishing Cream. I found it to be very light for a finishing cream (perfect for someone with thin or oily hair) so I had to use quite a bit on Nicole. We finished with the Frizz-Ease Moisture Barrier Firm-Hold Hairspray. This spray is too firm for everyday use in my opinion, but good at blocking out humidity for special occasions. I'm looking forward to trying the new Garnier Fructis anti-humidity hairsprays (Sleek & Shine, Volumizing, and Full Control). Congrats Nicole! And thank you to Ryan Brenizer Photography for the photo!

Lauren Luke's Makeup Launch

I am so proud of my girl, Lauren Luke! Long ago my friend Julie sent me one of her YouTube makeup instructional videos. It had a real homemade feel but she was incredibly bold with color and did an amazing job on herself. Best of all, she seemed like England's version of a "down home" girl. I got the feeling I was chatting about makeup with a girlfriend. In other words, you can't NOT love her. Apparently I was not the only one who liked her "every woman" appeal. Her youtube channel (screen name panacea81) subscribership grew to over 250,000 and has had millions of hits. This week her dream of having her own makeup line came true. I can't wait to try her beautiful, affordable palettes. Sephora even had a special launch for her By Lauren Luke collection at the opening of its Times Square store. Good for you, Lauren!

Indian Wedding

When I met Sarah for her wedding hair and makeup trial, she told me about the Indian wedding she had planned and showed me the most gorgeous red embroidered dress and ornate jewelry she was going to wear. I was immediately excited and a little bit jealous (I want an Indian wedding! How cool!). She has straight hair that does not usually hold a curl so she had already ruled out her favorite styles and was ready to settle on a simple bun. I asked her what her dream hairstyle was and to let me decide whether or not it was doable. She wanted textured hair that was finger combed to the side into a subtly messy curly little chignon. I thought we should at least TRY for it - it is a trial after all. We were both pleasantly surprised with the result. We decided on a grey smoky eye but kept it very very light since she was not used to wearing so much makeup. Then came the element that we would both lose tons of sleep over: lip color. She normally wears pale pinks but they seemed washed out and did not match the dress. Warmer versions looked too warm. Sheer reds and darker colors looked too vampish. As a former bride myself (who obsessed over the day's lip color for ages), I decided we needed more time to shop for the perfect color. She would go to the makeup counter and find one that she liked and I would continue to search. It began to haunt me. Should I break my "red lips" rule? No red lips at a wedding unless it is part of her everyday makeup routine and people are used to seeing her that way. But this was an Indian wedding - certainly cause for a waiver. I consulted my colleagues and they all recommended a flesh tone. Yes. Something close to the natural color of her lips. When we met back up on her wedding day she showed me the results of three trips to various counters: glossy red, long lasting red, and exactly-matching-the-dress red. I showed her the two fleshy nudes I found (ones with enough color that she wouldn't looked washed out) and you cannot believe her reaction. Is there a word that means jubilant relief? We tried it on and she sighed so heavily I could see the weight on her shoulders instantly lifted. "I didn't want to wear red!" she confessed. "You don't have to" I said. And with that I was reminded of why I have the "red lips rule" in the first place. You can look more glamorous on your wedding day - it is a special occasion after all - but you still should look like you. Congratulations Sarah! You are a sweetheart! A special thanks to Lewis Studios for the beautiful photos.

Braids Are Back

Hollywood is crazy for braids. A few stars had been sporting the style but when Jennifer Aniston wore her hair in a braided headband to the Oscars, the floodgates were opened. Now I'm starting to see this look not only in the streets but at weddings. Here is one style I did recently for the sister of the bride. She wanted most of her hair down like Jennifer Aniston but the braid to come up the side more like Anne Hathaway. Isn't she cute?!

longwear lip options

I often receive emails from friends and previous clients about product advice. As they know, I love to talk product! Here's an email I just received the other day: "Dearest Cassandra, When my mother was last visiting, she noted that my lipstick doesn't stay on very well, but that other brands would. I knew immediately who to ask. Which brands stay on the best? What are your recommendations? Please cover this on your blog and/or my Facebook Wall at your earliest convenience. All best, Lipstick-needing Lisa". Lisa: you know I'm partial to lipgloss for everyday wear. I just think it looks fresh and youthful. I think you would look absolutely lovely in a shimmery (not glittery) pale (not too pale) pink gloss. There are loads of long-wearing lipsticks out there. Many of them seem a bit dry or "serious" looking. The really moist ones do not last very long - perhaps this is the kind you are using now. Luckily there are some new solutions to get the look of a gloss without feeling super dried out AND they actually last a long time. Option 1: L'Oreal Infallible Never Fail Lipgloss, which allegedly lasts 6 hours. I was impressed with this product's longevity. It felt like a gloss, went on like a gloss, and lasted a very long time. After a while it only looks like a gloss but feels more like a moist lipstick but it certainly outlasted regular gloss. Option 2: Maybelline Superstay Gloss. This looks like a gloss but you need to apply it carefully and let it set (dry completely). The color makes a little film that bonds to your lips and stays on for allegedly 16 hours. You then apply clear gloss over the top as much or as little as you like throughout the day. They have a beautiful selection of colors - Beaming Blush is a gorgeous nude - and are available in drugstores everywhere. Covergirl also makes a version of this product. If the glossy feel is not for you, try Maybelline's Superstay Lipcolor which comes with a balm topcoat instead of a gloss. [Lisa, they have a pink one with gold shimmer that would look great on you]. The downside is that these can crack after several hours and leave teeny lines in your lips. Still they are quite impressive! Option 3: super hardcore stays on for 2 days...LipSense Liquid Lip Color. This product is perfect for occasions like weddings where you want the color to last all day with no touch-ups. Like the Maybelline, you apply the color and let it set. This stings a bit (briefly) as it stains the first few layers of your lips. Once it dries it's on there until you remove it (coat with vaselline and then scrub off with washcloth). Several of these are sheer colors that let your real lip color show through (try the ones with champagne in the name). You can also do two coats for a more intense color. You will need to choose a gloss or balm to go over it and the company sells several different finishes. Lisa, if you are interested I recommend the color Pink Champagne - a light shimmery wash of pink (more natural than bubblegummy). The company works like Avon so you have to order from a distributor. You can look them up on-line and order from their web page. Products are sent to you very quickly. I hope you find something that works for you. Let me know how it goes!

best summer lip stain

There are three sure signs that summer has arrived in my world: the makeup stores are loaded with bronzers, the magazines are loaded with beachy waves hair how to's, and my li'l old man is back at the park with his sno cone cart. I find myself looking at his usual spot in the winter and spring and feeling wistful -hoping he is not gone for good. So I just had my first cherry flavored hand-scraped cone of the season ($1!) and it left the most beautiful sheer red lip stain. If you have the misfortune of not living near a sno cone cart, there's always Stila's best selling Cherry Crush lip and cheek stain. Fresh and youthful, even in the sweltering heat.

Make Up For Ever

I am thoroughly enjoying the Make Up For Ever pro program which includes trainings and introductions to pro-grade products. Their NYC store recently hosted a product talk and demonstration for our NYC Makeup Artist Meetup Group. Their new HD (High Definition) line was the big buzz at last year's Makeup Show. When I finally tried their HD Powder, I was amazed. To me, all translucent powders are pretty much the same. They are supposed to be colorless and used to set product on the skin. For example, you'd apply it to the face when you have the foundation and concealer exactly how you want it and don't want it altered by adding colored powder. It's often used in between layers of lipstick to make that first layer really set. The problem is that they're not really translucent. They can look kind of white, especially against darker skin tones. The HD Powder was so finely milled that it barely stayed on my brush. The little particles flying around weightlessly in the air were a beautiful sight. Dusting it lightly onto a client's face was even more lovely a sight. It toned down the shine and set the foundation and concealer without looking powdery and overly matte. My MAC version now looks like ground up chalk dust in comparison. I haven't found any artist who has tried the HD and doesn't like it. I was even talking to a friend who is a corporate trainer for MAC and he confessed that their artists were secretly emptying their MAC powder containers and filling them with this. I think word has gotten back to the folks at MAC, as they have come out with a new version of their translucent powder: Prep + Prime Transparent Finishing Powder (which I have not tried). A lot of Make Up For Ever's products are not user friendly (hard to blend, too heavy/intense for everyday, etc.). If you are interested in trying their stuff, go for the HD products or the Aqua Eyes waterproof eyeliners in a fun variety of colors.

Armani Face Fabric - like buttuh

I had the immense pleasure of trying Giorgio Armani's Face Fabric Second Skin nude makeup (spf 12) today. I rarely get to Saks anymore but was surprised to find it at Nordstroms. WOW. Love at first touch... and I kept touching my face for the rest of the day. I cannot even describe how it feels. It's light and creamy - like buttercream frosting- but then instantly dries to the smoothest thing you've ever felt. They call this it's "unique (3d) micro-fil formulation." It's not a tinted moisturizer because with those you feel a moistness on the face. It seems too light to call a foundation, although it does have some tint. As promised, you get a no-makeup look. Super super natural, yet skin is evened out and discoloration is gone. I would recommend this for anyone with already lovely skin or people who are not big on wearing foundation but want to take the first step. An expensive indulgent little treat to keep in mind!

Adventures in Self Tanning

I haven't fake baked since 1991. My aunt had a tanning bed in her house and I saw her skin turn into leather. Seriously. I reached to Bain de Soleil but those early self tanners were dark and and orange-y and not very believable. Luckily new strides are being made every day in this arena. For the past few years I have used L'Oreal Sublime Bronze for the body. I like the fact that it's tinted so I can see if I'm missing any spots and has some subtle gold sparkle in it. [Note: thumbs down on their any angle spray version of this]. I also like the fact that I'm tan after one application. It was always too dark to apply to my feet/ankles and I could never reach my back so I ended up using Neutrogena MicroMist Sunless tanning spray for those areas. I could never apply the spray evenly for the whole body, nor could I stand the smell of spraying my whole body with it (think of that brown liquid you find in an antique perfume bottle from 1948). So even though I found a winning combo to get the look right, I hated lying around waiting for it to dry in the muggy summers feeling greasy and smelling like self tanner. I decided to try the famed Jergens natural glow Daily Moisturizer. I felt like I had done so much work applying it nice and evenly (not tinted so I was scared of missing a spot) and it was barely noticeable. On the third day I grew tired of "building" my tan. I knew what I was getting into but realized I am just not a daily body moisturizing kind of gal. Recently I read 2 great reviews of the new foam version of it, Jergens natural glow Foaming Daily Moisturizer, and decided to give it a try. They claimed it did not streak, did not smell, and dried rapidly. Intriguing! It came with a sample bottle of the Healthy Complexion Daily Moisturizer (spf 20 for the face) so I tried that too. After just one (heavy!) application, two neighbors asked where I'd been that I got so tan. They couldn't believe it was fake. Then I showed them my usually bright white legs. They winced at the streaks. I loved the "barely there" smell so much I decided to try again. I figured out that I was using WAY too much product. It comes out like hair mousse but does not dissipate the way hair mousse does. A little goes a long way. It feels lotion-y on, but much lighter than the others I'd tried. Two back-to-back light applications looks quite nice. I still use the neutrogena for the feet and back. The face stuff looks great and like the foam, not much is needed for a nice glow. If you are the palest whitest person you know and the thought of self tanner scares you, I recommend the lotion version which somehow seems slightly more subtle. And remember the old rules of putting vaseline or shea butter or the like over knees, elbows, and ankles before applying any tanning product. And just say NO to real tans from the real sun. Why age your skin even more?!!

Chris March!

Today I and some friends were out at the Hell's Kitchen flea market and who do we spy? Chris March - everyone's favorite crazily creative Project Runway contestant. When asked what he was doing today he just said "Puttering." Yup yup, us too.

Farewell to Max Factor Makeup :(

Proctor and Gamble announced that they will no longer be selling Max Factor makeup in the U.S. beginning early next year. I have to give them credit for trying, though. Even with the help of Carmen Electra ads and Pat McGrath's prestige in the makeup world, they still struggled. When I got married in 2001 they had just come out with the first long lasting semi-permanent lip color: Lipfinity. I mixed a pink and orange color together for my own wedding day and it lasted well into the night. Thanks for the memories, Max!